www.jeep.com, Jeep Super Fans blog for my favorite jeep

Samuel Crasnick


Finding a replacement soft top for your Jeep can be a time consuming task. One of the great things about the Jeep community is that there are so many aftermarket parts available. Unfortunately, one of the downsides to this is that the community tends to assume that every Jeep owner understands all of the lingo as soon as they roll their vehicle off the lot. Obviously this is not the case, so here is some information to hopefully help you save some frustration and find the correct soft top the first time around for your Jeep.

The first thing to figure out, and this is with just about anything Jeep, is exactly which Jeep you have. Since you are looking for a soft top, we’re going to assume you have a Wrangler of some sort, but that alone will not get you far in the Jeep community.

Every Jeep has been ordained with a two letter code, depending on the year of its make. Anything made before 1986 is considered a CJ. Unfortunately, the nuances of the CJ go far deeper than is appropriate for this article, so if you own a Jeep that was built before 1986, you will want to do some research to find out exactly which CJ you own.

Past that, the 87 through 96 Wranglers were called YJ, the 97-06 TJ, and 07-09 JK. It is important to remember that every single one of these generations of Jeep had soft tops, every one is different, and every one is readily available on the aftermarket. Be sure to take no chances when it comes to your Jeep’s identification.

Some websites and parts stores will spell this out for you, such as Jeep 4×4 Center’s Jeep identifier. Brick and mortar part stores are particularly bad about employees not being as knowledgeable as they pretend, thereby cutting your research short because you think you have your answer. If you’re looking for the lowest price, the cheapest websites may not be the most comprehensive when it comes to such information. Wikipedia is an excellent source for further information when drilling down exactly which Jeep you own as it is maintained by the community who, incidentally, come up with these designations in the first place.

A question to ask yourself after you’ve identified your two digit code, but before shopping: do you need new hardware with which to mount your new soft top? If you have owned your Jeep since it drove off the lot, then chances are you will not need new hardware unless something is damaged. If, however, your Jeep was purchased used, you may be in for a rude surprise when you find out that not only has your soft top already been replaced, but the replacement required new hardware, and now you have no way of knowing exactly which hardware was used. Not all tops will fit all hardware, so you’ll need to do some research to see if you can figure out what brand hardware yours is. If you’re unable to figure it out, it may make more sense for you to purchase new hardware with your new soft top.

One last thing to consider before you go looking for your new soft top is what type of doors your Jeep has, and do they have glass windows or plastic. A full door would be one with a roll up or electric glass window, similar to a normal pickup. Otherwise, you have either a half door with a plastic window, or a half door with glass. Not all soft tops fit all door types, so you will want to be sure it will fit yours, otherwise you may not get a water-tight seal.

David Mellon


Setting up your JK Jeep Wrangler JK 2007 – Current could not get any easier for the DIY-Do it yourself operator! The JK Wrangler was built with better towing capabilities than any other Wrangler to date. Hitches and Wiring is available not only by MOPAR but also as Hitch and Wiring packages with multiple wiring options for easy installation at any budget.

Hitch Installation Instructions:

If you are taking the time to read this article you have already taking the time it would have taken you to install a hitch and wiring kit! The JK Jeep Wrangler 07-currently has been designed for easy installation of a hitch, which simply bolts onto the rear cross member with 4 bolts that come with your new hitch or hitch and wiring set. Step 1) if you’re Wrangler came with a Hook on the rear; this is first removed by simply removing the 3 bolts holding it in place. 2) Next your hitch is slide over the rear cross member and aligned with the pre-drilled hitch mounting holes. 3) Bolts are screwed into the pre-existing mounted holes and then tightened. -Your done! Your hitch is installed! Next step, the wiring…

Wiring Harness installation and options:

Input from many Jeep owners say the wiring installation is the challenge many have. Consider Hitch installation as a DIY-Do it yourself project or a dealer project. Let’s hope this challenge can be set aside by the ease of installation of a Plug in wiring harness for your trailer lighting needs. YES, plug in harness! There is no wire splicing or cutting needed to install a wiring harness on your JK Jeep Wrangler! With that said, any garage or parts store trying to sell you a generic kit is bad news. The couple dollars saved by using a splice-in pigtail is a recipe for later problems due to corrosion, besides the fact you or a technician will be cutting into the factory wiring to install the trailer pigtail!

There are a couple of options for your JK Wrangler trailer Wiring needs that simply plug into the factory wiring which we will discuss in a moment. The Mopar wiring harness is a great harness which has a hard plastic loom over protecting the complete length of the harness, another plus is this harness will snap in place to both the Mopar hitch or Rugged Ridge hitch. Aftermarket plug-in wiring options are also available, these options have the same wiring quality and ease of installation with the main difference being the lack of a wiring loom and the end of the pigtail (the part that hooks into your trailer wiring) does not snap into the Factory hitch or Rugged Ridge hitch, this will need attached by other means such as a Zip-Tie.

Just a couple thoughts in regards to wiring looms: 1) Loom can be locally purchased for about $1, loom material is available at most hardware stores like Home Depot, Menards etc. 2) A looms function is to protect wiring from the elements, so is wiring insulation!

Installation- A simple task! You will need a Philips head screwdriver and just a couple minutes of time! 1) Removed the screws from your left taillight assemble and pull your tail light away from your Jeep. 2) Unplug the taillight from the factory harness 3) Plug the Trailer wiring harness into the tail light plug then back into the Jeep Wiring harness and run the wire down under your Jeep to the hitch. 3) Fasten the plug to your Hitch either by snapping in place, or a zip-tie and your ready to tow!

Al Carl


While the Jeep is famous in its history of serving the US military there is some misunderstanding concerning who created the original Jeep. Many incorrectly attribute the development of the first Jeep to Willys. The true inspiration of the first Jeep design came from a small and relatively unknown company by the name of the American Bantam Car Company based in Butler, PA.

The American Bantam Car Company was first established as a subsidiary of the Austin Car Company, a British car manufacturer, and was originally called American Austin Car Company. Austin made a small and economical car called the Austin Seven, which was very popular in England. Unfortunately for the Austin Car Company, the Austin Seven never saw popularity here in the states and the American Austin Car Company nearly went bankrupt. It was eventually taken over by its Chairman who changed its name to the American Bantam Car Company (Bantam). Bantam took the original Austin Seven design and made a number of improvements. It was a slightly bigger version than its British cousin and was capable of longer drives.

The Bantam folks were pioneers and saw a need for a light military vehicle. They provided a few of their autos to the National Guard in an effort to sell the military on the use of such vehicles. The military finally realized a need for a light mobile vehicle and finally agreed to discuss a design with Banatm in 1940. The outcome of this meeting was a proposed military 4X4 hybrid that was to weigh less than 1300 pounds. In 1941 Bantam developed a Bantam Reconnaissance Car in response to the U.S. Army’s request for an all-purpose military vehicle. This vehicle ultimately became the prototype of the Jeep, which was later manufactured by Willys (Willys MB) and Ford (GPW).

The US military was concerned about Bantam’s ability to produce the necessary amount of vehicles and because of this they decided to offer other manufacturers the opportunity to produce the vehicle. The requirement was to design a vehicle and with the approval of the US military, the manufacturer was then to build and deliver a prototype within 49 days. With the military’s approval of the prototype, an additional 70 working rigs were to be delivered in 75 days. The required weight limit caused many manufacturers to turn away from the project with only Bantam and Willys participating initially, and Ford joining in later.

Bantam’s drawings were the closest to the military’s requirements even though their design had problems with the weight restrictions. The company completed their design and built and delivered the prototype on schedule. The military having tested the vehicle to its fullest was satisfied with the design and performance, and commissioned the additional 70 vehicles to be built. This is where the Military began to be concerned about Bantam’s ability to produce enough vehicles. The company was fairly small and had a limited capacity. What the military did was to grant Willys and Ford access to the trials of the Bantam prototype and to their actual designs, even though Willys failed to submit a prototype on time and Ford showed little interest in the endeavor up to that point in time. Both Ford and Willys were allowed to submit prototypes, the Quad (Willys) and the Pygmy (Ford), well outside the specified time frame and well above the required weight limit. Both the Ford and Willys versions “borrowed” quite a bit from Bantam’s design.

The Bantam vehicle, Bantam GPV (General Purpose Vehicle), was delivered on time, met the majority of the specifications, and performed well in the tests. By all accounts Bantam should have been awarded the contract, and there was a large controversy over how the contract was handled. The military, unfortunately for Bantam, identified strengths and weaknesses of each vehicle. The Bantam was to high off the ground and was underpowered, while the Quad was well over the weight limit but had a more powerful engine, and the Pygmy was underpowered and had suspect steering components but handled best of the three vehicles. The military still concerned about the capability of two of the companies, Bantam and Willys, decided to place an order for 1500 vehicles with each company producing 500, as long as they met the original specifications with the only change being an increase in the weight limit to a little over 2200 pounds.

All three companies took the best ideas from each other and from Bantam’s original production design to further develop their vehicles causing the 3 vehicles to be extremely similar. In mid 1941 the military decided that the 1500 vehicles should be of a standardized design and not three different types. They ultimately chose the Willys design due to its lower cost, and that version was adopted as the standard army vehicle. Willys went on to secure the contract to provide the next 16,000 Willys. This contract award called for a series of alterations to the design, which lead to the classic standard Jeep design.

Bantam continued to produce its production version, known, as the Bantam 40 BRC, but the US Army did not want it because it was non-standard. The already produced vehicles and the new production units were forwarded to the Russian and British armies. It is very interesting to note that after watching the testing trials the Russian military actually chose the Bantam over the Willys’ and Ford’s units. The eventual Willys’ design closely resembles the 40 BRC.

In the winter of 1941 the army wanted to develop a second source for the vehicle because Willys couldn’t keep up with production requirements and a wanted a safeguard against the possible sabotage at the one production facility. In November the US Army awarded Ford to build 15,000 jeeps to the Willys design and drawing. The Willys MB and the Ford GPW vary in minor details only as the military required that the parts be interchangeable. The GPW in the Ford model’s name was reference to G for government vehicle, P referred to its wheel base size, and the W was for designating that it had a Willys’ engine. The one change Ford made, which was adopted by the military as standard design, was the now all-familiar grill. With Ford now producing the jeep along with Willys, the military was able to provide the jeeps to its allies and production of the Bantam 40 BRC was discontinued.

Combined production of the Willys MB and Ford GPW during WW II was over 500,000. A total of 2,675 of the Bantam 40 BRCs were built. The company reportedly never produced vehicles again. The US military awarded Bantam contracts to build trailers as a way to make it up to them for not receiving the jeep contract.

So, who created the original jeep? Well historically this has seen a bit of controversy going back as far as 1943 when the Fair Trade Commission ultimately charged Willys with false and misleading advertising claims stating that Willys had created the Jeep. The court determined that the Jeep was fostered and conceived in Butler, PA, by the American Bantam Car Company. The primary designer who worked on the Jeep project for Bantam was Karl Probst, and, now you know who really created the first Jeep!

Matthew Keegan


Much to some people’s surprise, SUVs are still selling and are in demand by buyers who crave the utility that these types of vehicles offer. But with one small caveat — that SUV must get good fuel mileage.

The industry leader for all SUVs insofar as fuel economy goes is the Ford Escape Hybrid. For 2009, the hybrid Escape deliver 34 mpg city and 31 mpg on the highway; along with the twin Mercury Mariner Hybrid, no other SUV comes close.

But, the cost of buying a Ford Escape Hybrid scares some people off, as its near $30K starting price is a bit much to swallow. Fully loaded, the Escape Hybrid can cost around $36K, just above the base price of the luxury Cadillac CTS.

A Clear Winner: Jeep Patriot

Edmunds.com surveyed the small SUV market recently and determined that the Jeep Patriot was the most affordable SUV to own, costing owners about 48 cents per mile to operate. That figure includes fuel, insurance, financing, depreciation, taxes, maintenance, and repairs.

“Even though gas prices are high, some consumers are still in search of a sport-utility vehicle to meet their needs,” said Jesse Toprak, Executive Director of Industry Analysis, Edmunds.com. “For those consumers, vehicles like the Jeep Patriot are relative bargains in their segment.”

Good Fuel Economy, Excellent Entry Level Price

Powered by a 2.4L I4 engine paired with a five-speed manual transmission, the Patriot produces 172 horsepower and 165 lb.-ft. of torque. The five passenger Patriot delivers a respectable 23 mpg city and 28 mpg on the highway, the latter number just 3 mpg less than the Escape Hybrid. More telling is the Patriot’s base MSRP of $17,065, some $11,000 less than the Escape Hybrid. Think you need a hybrid? That price differential will take years to make up unless you do heavy driving.

Of significance are the sales numbers for the Jeep Patriot, which are up by 119% over last year even with the overall domestic automotive market being down by double digits this year. Jeep’s Senior Manager of Brand Marketing, Robert Hegbloom explains the trend this way: “In difficult periods like this, it is vital that we continue to evolve our products to exceed customers’ needs and Jeep Patriot does just that. By providing great fuel economy, performance, handling and flexibility, all at an affordable price, the Jeep Patriot is a tremendous value.”

Maybe the high price of gas has scared you away from SUVs, but the Jeep Patriot offers proof that value can be had even in one of the industry’s most battered vehicle segments.

(Source: Edmunds.com)

Mike Strawbridge


The Select Trac option on the Jeep Cherokee gets you the New Process NP 242 transfer case. This transfer case gives the following operating modes: 2wd, 4wd with the center differential open, 4wd with the center differential locked, neutral, and 4wd low range (center differential locked)

The addition of a center differential is the main difference between the NP 242 and the NP 231 or Command Trac transfer case. Without a differential, the 231 transfer case offers only part time four wheel drive mode.

The NP 242 transfer case Full time mode opens the center differential allowing the front and rear axles to rotate at different speeds while still being linked by the transfer case. The end with the least traction will get the most torque. While this mode may have some disadvantages off road where a wheel may loose contact with the ground, it has the advantage of being usable on all paved surfaces. Part Time mode – with the center differential locks can only be used on loose or slick surfaces with out possible damage to the transfer case.

I use full time mode on wet streets, hard packed gravel or dirt, some snow and ice situations and on dry pavement when full acceleration without wheel spin is desirable. I use part time mode on loose gravel, dirt, grass and any off road situation. I use Part time mode when RallyCross racing as well.

I use low range for more control in off road situations or on rough gravel roads when traveling downhill to avoid excessive use of the brakes. I also often use low range when positioning my trailer or other towed equipment when precision placement is needed.

The NP 242 transfer case can be switched between 2wd and either 4wd mode at any speed simply by moving the lever. The switch to low range must be made at very low speed – the Jeep manual says 3 mph.

One common operating problem with the 242 transfer case is that it will stick in 4wd even if the lever is moved to 2wd. Internally, moving the lever loads a spring which then applies force to move the selector fork. If the gears are loaded with torque, the spring will not have enough energy to move the sleeve off the gears. Once torque is removed from the gears, the spring will then move the fork and slide the sleeve of the gears.

Momentarily lifting your foot off the gas will often unload the gears enough to allow the spring pressure to move the fork. On some high mileage units, a wear groove will form on the sleeve or gear causing it to stick longer and may require a couple of changes from loaded to unloaded to get the sleeve to release form the gear.

The Jeep NP 242 is lubricated with Automatic Transmission fluid. The level is checked by removing the upper of the two large plugs on the back of the case. The fluid should be level with the upper plug.

The NP 242 has a slip yoke on the tail shaft. If the drive shaft is damaged or removed, fluid will be lost out the tail shaft. Also this seal is important to maintain in good condition to prevent fluid loss.

The NP 242 is a very versatile transfer case and is my choice for three of my five Jeeps. The full time selection gets frequent use in all of them.

Sydney Davidson


It doesn’t matter whether you’re a bona fide Jeep owner or just a loyal enthusiast; there are hundreds of exterior Jeep accessories that all Jeep enthusiasts should know about. Whether you’re looking to make your Jeep safer and more rugged, or simply looking to add personal style like a true off-roading warrior, here is an overview of five of the most popular exterior Jeep accessories you should definitely know about:

Armor

Jeep armor helps to protect your Jeep during off-roading excursions and along tough Jeep trails. Each piece of armor is designed to protect a specific function of your Jeep and may make the difference between needing a tow home or being able to ride off a trail comfortably. When you hear the words “Jeep Armor,” they could be referring to dozens of optional protective devices. The most common of these devices include: skid plates, rocker panels, sport bar cages, and differential protection.

Body Lifts and Mounts

Nearly every Jeep owner is familiar with what a body lift and mount is. Body lifts and mounts are designed for specific Jeep models, such as the Wrangler (auto and 5-speed), or CJ-7. Some of these lifts help the Jeep get extra clearance for oversized tires. Other lifts simply raise the Jeep by as little as one inch above the factory setting. The body lifts and mounts always need to be installed by a professional in order to ensure safety, but installation may not require welding or drilling.

Bumpers

Many Jeep owners customize their bumpers in order to stylize the Jeep or to increase a particular function of the Jeep. There are many different types of Jeep bumpers that can be used to customize the Jeep, but the most popular bumpers include: Bull Bar, Grille and Brush Guards, Heavy Duty Front and Bumpers, and receiver accessories for towing options.

Jeep Tops

When you hear the term “Jeep Top”, it is usually going to be in reference to a top to a Jeep Wrangler. There are a huge variety of Jeep top variations, which include both hard tops and soft tops. Here are some of the most common Jeep tops to look out for: bikini tops for half of the vehicle, duster for the rear cargo area, half top (like a bikini top), sail cloths, and even modular roof rack systems to store your gear.

Lights

No Jeep is truly complete until you have customized the lights. There are different types of lights for each different model of Jeep, including Jeep Cherokee lights, Jeep CJ lights, Jeep Wrangler lights, and even Jeep Grand Cherokee lights. These lights may include a simple halogen headlight or sidemarker bulb, or they could include specialized lighting, such as flood lights roof-mounted to light the trail even brighter.

With this basic knowledge of some of the most popular exterior Jeep accessories, you’re all set to talk Jeep with anyone. Remember: Jeeps are some of the most customizable vehicles, so be sure to define exactly what you want your Jeep to look like and how to want it to perform in order to get the most from your money!

Larry H. Morton


The Jeep Comanche was built from 1986 through 1992. It was introduced by the American Motors Corporation (AMC) in 1986, but then AMC and it’s Jeep Division were bought out by the Chrysler Corporation who began distributing the mid-sized truck officially in 1987.

The fact that Dodge pickup trucks are also Chrysler products made it difficult for the Jeep newcomer to compete with the established Dodge line especially the Dodge Dakota which was also available in 4 wheel drive.

Also, Jeep sales had been declining with the slow death of American Motors Corp. and now it was up to Chrysler to decide what to do with their new division…but especially the Jeep Comanche.

The Comanche pickup was built on the successful Jeep Cherokee platform sharing most major drive train and even some body/interior parts.

I have always felt that the Comanche truck was a handsome looking pickup, as well as being a good size between the compact and full-sized pickups throughout the spectrum of American and Foreign entries.

I currently own an original 1987 Jeep Comanche 4×4 long bed with a 5 spd. standard and the first of the 4.0 Liter engines. I thoroughly enjoy my truck…and have loved most Jeeps for quite some time now. This truck has plenty of power and will go anywhere it is pointed…especially in rough driving conditions.

My truck is smooth on the highway and handles dirt, rocks, mud, snow and ice as well. There are no power windows, seats or locks anywhere on this workhorse.

Chrysler/Jeep has been talking for several years now about building a production pickup to fill the long gap since the Jeep Comanche. In 2005 they came out with the Jeep Gladiator Concept prototype which will knock your socks off. This is one nice looking pickup built on the Wrangler Unlimited platform.

In the meantime, while awaiting new Jeep Pickup blood from Chrysler…there are some nice Comanches still on the road and some are even available to good homes. They can only become rarer with time.

So…grab one up…take care of it…and enjoy the Jeep Experience!

Billy Han


In vehicle customization, leveling kits fly under the radar as far as off road vehicles are concerned. Yet while suspension lifts may hoard the limelight as flashier and more crucial pieces of off road hardware, leveling lift kits play an essential role as well.

Before anything else, it should be understood that this not a supplementary upgrade, but rather a modification that can have a significant impact on vehicle performance and reliability, and thus deserve a fair amount of attention.

Think of leveling kits in this way: sure, vehicles needing leveling lift kits can still drive without them. But then again, a blind man may know how to drive a car, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that he should.

Many probably know the purpose and benefits, but rarely does one possess a more intimate understanding. Herein, we’ll attempt to broaden that understanding with a closer look.

Why Leveling Kits?

With so many lift-related components out there, it’s easy to get confused about where they fit in. In their base concept, leveling lift kits work similarly to body lift kits in both application and function, but with a slight difference.

On one hand, a body lift is meant to provide lift for a vehicle, allowing it to add larger tires, or simply offer that lifted look at a lower price and less installation work than a full suspension lift.

On the other hand, leveling kits serve the same purpose, but only for either the front or rear end of a vehicle primarily for the purpose of evening out a vehicle’s stance.

With this in mind, leveling out your vehicle come in handy in cases where suspension modifications or uneven weight distribution causes one end of a vehicle to sag. For instance, a vehicle with a considerable amount of added weight on the front end due to a bumper, winch, or other components is the perfect candidate for front leveling lift kits.

As stated earlier, leveling kits aren’t a necessary upgrade to continue operating your vehicle; however, neglecting an imbalance in ride level can impact a variety of crucial factors, such as handling, tire or suspension wear, and even plain old aesthetic appeal.

They offer alternative functions as well, such as some extra inches for tire clearance, or improved rear end wheel travel during towing or hauling jobs.

Additionally, leveling out your ride is simple and effective to operate, and also relatively easy to install.

Know Your Vehicle

Leveling kits differ slightly from suspension and body lifts in their application. Although there are essentially 3 different types of leveling lift kits, the one you need is entirely dependent upon your vehicle. There’s simply no way around this.

Knowing what type fits your vehicle can make it much easier to shop for one, and also help you get accustomed to exactly what’s involved in installation.

Types of Leveling Kits

As stated earlier, there are 3 primary types of kits that work for most major vehicles, plus block kits, which are a kind of specialized leveling kit. The type of kit you need is entirely vehicle-specific, and can be easily determined by contacting your manufacturer.

It should be noted that you should not confuse these with air leveling kits, which can be easily viewed as being a suitable replacement for leveling lift kits. This is most definitely not the case, and air-based versions should never be considered as an alternative to complete truck leveling kits.

Strut Extensions For vehicles that use a coilover strut in their front suspension, which usually includes late-model half-ton trucks and SUVs, strut extension leveling lift kits are the way to go. Strut extension leveling kits function off the basic concept of adding a spacer on top of factory struts. This process is typically a simple and cost-effective method of adding lift, especially since it requires no modification of factory parts, and can also be easily removed.
Torsion Keys On its own, a torsion bar can actually be adjusted to provide lift without any additional modifications; however, stock torsion keys don’t usually have the strength and sturdiness to safely maintain the lift. Aftermarket torsion keys provide a solution. These reinforced keys are built stronger and more stable than factory units, as they are specifically designed as both a safe and effective way to maintain lift upon adjusting a torsion bar. A torsion key adjuster tool is a recommended purchase to go along with torsion key-style kits.
Coil Spacers Coil spacer leveling kits are similar to strut extensions in concept, but slightly different in application. Whereas strut extensions add a spacer on top of factory struts, coil spacer leveling lift kits instead add them to the top of factory spring buckets. These modifications will help your truck maintain a factory stance and OEM ride quality. In order to compensate for the additional lift, some coil spacer applications will require the installation of shock extensions, which are usually included with these leveling kits.

Block Kits

Not to be confused with standard leveling lift kits, block kits are the preferred method of altering the ride height of the rear end of a vehicle, whether you’re looking for a rear-high stance, or just want to put the rake back into your truck for hauling or towing.