My 1993 Jeep Wrangler has starting issues?
throttledan
I’m having starting problems with 93 Jeep Wrangler with a 4.0L 6 with an auto trans. Sometimes it starts right up, and sometimes it won’t start at all, independent of the weather conditions.
I’m having starting problems with 93 Jeep Wrangler with a 4.0L 6 with an auto trans. Sometimes it starts right up, and sometimes it won’t start at all, independent of the weather conditions.
I have spark (took plugs out and tested but replaced cap, rotor, and plugs) and replaced the fuel filter (I didn’t tighten the hose all the way and it shot out fuel, so I know the fuel pump is working), and cleaned the throttle body. A friend suggested the injectors or the relays. Could that be it?
Thanks
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March 28th, 2010 at 11:03 pm
Just for fun, take it to Autozone and see if there are any stored codes in the computer. This can give you a good idea on where to start looking for your problem!
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March 30th, 2010 at 7:24 am
Next time it acts up try moving the shifter back and forth between reverse and neutral or park. If it starts then it’s likely your neutral safety switch. They can be cleaned or replaced. Directions can be found on-line.
April 2nd, 2010 at 3:42 am
I own a shop, and the next time it won’t start try this; Use a long screwdriver, or pipe to put against the injectors to see if you hear them clicking when you are trying to start it. If not, then the ignition control module may be going bad. Sometimes they will work fine, and ten minutes later they don’t work at all, and them a few minutes later they decide to work again. It looks like you have covered the bases here. If you have fire at the sparkplugs, then it must be within the fuel delivery system, and if you have access to a noid light, you can test the injectors one at a time for signal with it, or do the screwdriver thing I mentioned. You can have fuel pressure, but not enough to push it through the injectors. Think about how small the orfice is in the injector, and you suddenly realize how much pressure it takes to push fuel through them. First an foremost, check to make sure you have a good battery, good clean, tight connections, and the ground strap from the engine to the firewall is secure, as this is how the computer gets ground to work with. Any of these will stop it dead in its tracks. Also; there is a ground that comes from the fuel pump to the frame, and if its corroded or rusted, it will not allow the pump to work properly, and may even burn the pump out if its arching to ground as this makes the pump overheat and quit working. A bad mass airflow sensor can make one act like this too. Test it by taping on it with a screwdriver with the engine running, and if it shuts down as soon as you do this, you have found the problem. A bad crank sensor can be the cause of this too. An ignition control module can test good and still be bad, as it only breaks down when it gets hot, so don’t let that trick you.
Part 2:
How can you have fuel pressure (turn the engine over) and the neutral safety switch be the problem, IF it in fact turned over? If the neutral safety switch is bad, the starter won’t turn the engine over at all. I’m sure you have tried moving the gear selector, and that did nothing, so I think if you will go over what I suggested, you might just find the problem. A common problem with these is the crank position sensor, but since yours is a “93″ I’m not sure it even has one, but if it does, it may not be any good. If you have a distributor, and I think yours does, you must look at what signals the computer to send signal to the injectors. If you don’t hear the clicking, then your injectors are not firing. If they are firing, then you don’t have enough pressure (probably) to push the fuel through the injectors. You can test this by purchasing a spray can of carburetor/choke cleaner, hold gas pedal to the floor, spray 4-5 seconds into the intake, move the spray away (don’t want to get injured), and start the vehicle. If it starts, then you can be sure the problem is the injectors not firing. The computer gets a signal either from a crank/cam position sensor, tells the computer when to fire the injectors, and the computer sends a ground to the injectors, thus the injectors fire. You must make sure you have this signal to the computer, and the injector is getting the signal also. You must also make 100% sure the computer is powered up with 12.0 volts, and is getting a good ground. A noid light should be used to check injectors with, and a fuel pressure gage used to check the pressure on the injector rail. If all of this checks out, and you don’t have any signal to the injectors, (after you rule out the crank position sensor, or ignition control module) then you must clean & test the wiring harness to the computer, and finally suspect the computer being bad. As another precaution, its always a good idea to do a compression test on the engine. The engine must have fire, fuel, and compression in order to run. Finding the missing component will lead you to the solution.
Glad to help out, Good Luck!!!
April 5th, 2010 at 10:01 am
check grounds and wires to starter is a good quess also although some of these first answers are good ones also. i like to start at the battery and work my way back from there.
April 7th, 2010 at 6:11 pm
Check the “Crank Angle Position Sensor”